Istanbul

Area: 5.712 km²

Population: 10.469.163 (2004)


Istanbul, once known as the capital of capital cities, has many unique features. It is the only city in the world to span two continents, and the only one to have been a capital during two consecutive empires, one Christian and the other Islamic. Once capital of the Ottoman Empire, Istanbul still remains the commercial, historical and cultural pulse of Turkey, and its beauty lies in its ability to embrace its contradictions: ancient and modern, religious and secular, Asia and Europe, mystical and earthly all co-exist here.

Its variety is one of Istanbul’s greatest attractions: The ancient mosques, palaces, museums and bazaars reflect its diverse history. The thriving shopping area of Taksim buzzes with life and entertainment and the serene beauty of the Bosphorus, Princes Islands and parks bring a touch of peace to the otherwise chaotic metropolis.

Districts

Adalar, Avcılar, Bağcılar, Bahçelievler, Bakırköy, Beşiktaş, Bayrampaşa, Beykoz, Beyoğlu, Eminönü, Eyüb, Fatih, Gaziosmanpaşa, Kadıköy, Kâğıthane, Kartal, Küçükçekmece, Pendik, Sarıyer, Şişli, Ümraniye, Üsküdar, Zeytinburnu, Büyükçekmece, Çatalca, Silivri, Şile, Esenler, Güngören, Maltepe, Sultanbeyli, Tuzla

The Bosphorus

Golden Horn: This horn-shaped estuary bisects European Istanbul. One of the best natural harbours in the world, it was once the centre for Byzantine and Ottoman navies and commercial shipping interests. Today, attractive parks and promenades line the shores - a picturesque scene, especially as the sun goes down over the water. At Fener and Balat, neighbourhoods midway up the Golden Horn, there are entire streets filled with old wooden houses, churches, and synagogues dating from Byzantine and Ottoman times. The Orthodox Patriarchy resides at Fener and a little further up the Golden Horn at Eyup, are some wonderful examples of Ottoman architecture. Muslim pilgrims from all over the world visit Eyup Camii and  the Tomb of Eyup, the Prophet Mohammed’s standard bearer, and it is one of the holiest places in Islam. The area is a still a popular burial place, and the hills above the mosque are dotted with modern gravestones interspersed with ornate Ottoman stones. The Pierre Loti Cafe, atop the hill overlooking the shrine and the Golden Horn, is a wonderful place to enjoy the tranquillity of the view.

Beyoğlu and Taksim: Beyoglu is an interesting district with European-influenced architecture from a century ago. Europe’s second oldest underground railway, Tunel was built by the French in 1875 and must also be one of the shortest – offering a one-stop ride to the start of Taksim. Near the Tunel is the Galata district, whose Galata Tower has become a famous symbol of Istanbul, and the top of which offers a tremendous 180 degree view of the city.

Running from the Tunel area to Taksim square is one of the city’s main streets for shopping, entertainment and urban promenading: Istiklal Caddesi. This is a fine example of the contrasts of which Istanbul is composed: fashion shops, bookshops, cinemas, markets, restaurants and even hand-carts selling trinkets and simit (sesame bread snack) ensure that the street is packed throughout the day until late into the night. The old tramcars, now back in service, shuttle up and down this fascinating street, which is otherwise entirely pedestrianised. There are old embassy buildings, the Galatasaray High School, the colourful ambience of Balik Pazari (Fish Bazaar) and restaurants in Cicek Pasaji (Flower Passage). Also on this street are the oldest church in the area, St Mary’s Draperis dating back to 1789, and the Franciscan Church of St Antoine, demolished and then rebuilt in 1913.
 

Istiklal Caddesi ends at  the busy open plaza of Taksim Square,  the hub of modern Istanbul, with its imposing monument celebrating Ataturk and the War of Independence. The main terminal of the new subway is under the square, adjacent is a noisy bus terminal, and at the north end is the Ataturk Cultural Centre, one of the venues of the Istanbul Theatre Festival. Several five-star hotels are dotted around this area, including the Hyatt, Intercontinental and Hilton (the oldest of its kind in the city). North of the square is the Istanbul Military Museum.

Taksim and Beyoglu have for centuries been the centre of nightlife, and now there are many lively bars and clubs off Istiklal Caddesi, including some of the only gay venues in the city. Beyoglu is also the centre of the more bohemian arts scene.

Sultanahmet: Many places of historical interest are concentrated in Sultanahmet, heart of the Imperial Centre of the Ottoman Empire. The most important places in this area are Topkapi Palace, Aya Sofia, Sultan Ahmet Camii (the Blue Mosque), the Hippodrome, Kapali Carsi (Covered Market), Yerebatan Sarnici (underground cisterns)and the Museum of Islamic Art.
In addition to this wonderful variety of historical and architectural sites, Sultanahmet also has a large number of carpet and souvenir shops, hotels and guesthouses, cafes, bars and restaurants, and travel agents.

Ortaköy: Ortakoy was a resort for the Ottoman sultans because of its attractive location on the Bosphorus, and is still a popular spot for residents and visitors. The village is found within a triangle formed by a mosque, a church and a synagogue. Nearby are the Ciragan Palace, Kabatas High School, Feriye and the Princess Hotel.
When Ortakoy was just a small fishing village,  university students, teachers and lecturers would gather there to drink tea and discuss life. More recently the area has become a suburb of Istanbul, with an increasing amount of expensive restaurants, bars, shops and a large market. The fishing, however, lives on and the area is popular with local anglers.  There is now a huge waterfront tea-house which is crammed at weekends and holidays.

Sarıyer: The first sight of Sarıyer is where the Bosphorus connects with the Black Sea, after the bend in the river near Tarabya. Around this area, old summer houses, embassies and fish restaurants line the shore, and the narrow road which separates it from Buyukdere, continues along to the beaches of Kilyos.

Sarıyer and Rumeli Kavağı are the last wharfs on the European side visited by Bosphorus boat trips. Both these districts, famous for their fish restaurants, are very crowded at weekends and holidays with Istanbul residents escaping the city.

Further on, the Bosphorus is lined with tree-covered cliffs and little villages. The Sadberk Hanim Museum, just before Sariyer, is an interesting place to visit, a collection of archaeological and ethnographic items, housed in two wooden houses. A few kilometres away is the huge Belgrade Forest, once a hunting ground of the Sultans, and now a popular weekend retreat.

Üsküdar: Relatively unknown to tourists, the suburb of Üsküdar, on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, is one of the most attractive suburbs. Religiously conservative in its background, it has a tranquil atmosphere and some fine examples of imperial and domestic architecture.

The Iskele, or Mihrimah Camii is opposite the main ferry pier, on a high platform with a huge covered porch in front, often occupied by older local men watching life around them. Opposite this is Yeni Valide Camii, built in 1710, and the Valide Sultan’s green tomb, rather like a giant birdcage. The Cinili Mosque takes its name from the beautiful tiles which decorate the interior, and was built in 1640.

Apart from places of religious interest, Uskudar is also well known as a shopping area, with old market streets selling traditional local produce, and a good flea-market with second hand furniture. There are plenty of good restaurants and cafes with great views of the Bosphorus and the rest of the city, along the quayside. In the direction of Haydarpasa is the lhe Karaca Ahmet Cemetery, the largest Muslim graveyard in Istanbul.  The Camlica hills, bordering the area, offer wonderful panoramic views of the islands and river.

Kadıköy: Further south along the Bosphorus towards the Sea of Marmara, Kadıköy has developed into a lively area with up-market shopping, eating and entertainment making it popular, especially with wealthy locals. Once prominent in the history of Christianity, in the 5th century important meetings were held here, but few reminders of that age remain. It is a  fashionable area to promenade along the waterfront in the evenings, especially around the marinas and yacht clubs.

Bagdat Caddesi is one of the most trendy – and label-conscious – fashion shopping streets, and for more down-to-earth goods, the Gen Azim Gunduz Caddesi is the best place for clothes, and the Bit Pazari (Flea Market) on Ozelellik Sokak is good for browsing through bric-a-brac. In the district of Moda, is the Benadam art gallery, as well as many restaurants and cafes providing international cuisine.

Haydarpaşa: To the north of Kadikoy is Haydarpasa, with its Prussian-style train station built in 1908, the first stop on the Baghdad railway. Now it is the main station for eastbound destinations both within Turkey and internationally. There are tombs and monuments dedicated to the English and French soldiers who lost their lives during the Crimean War (1854-56), near the military hospital. The north-west wing of the 19th Century Selimiye Barracks housed the hospital, where Florence Nightingale cared for soldiers, and remains to honour her memory.

Polonezköy: Polonezköy (Polish Village) was established in 1848 by Prince Czartorisky, leader of the Polish nationals who were granted exile in the Ottoman Empire to escape oppression in the Balkans. During his exile, he succeeded in establishing a community of Balkans, which still survives, on the plot of land sold to him by a local monastery.
Since the 1970s the village has become popular with local Istanbulites. All the Poles have since left the village, and the place is inhabited now by wealthy city people, living in the few remaining Central European style wooden houses with pretty balconies.

Kilyos: Kilyos is the nearest beach resort to the city, 25km away on the Black Sea coast on the European side of the Bosphorus. Once a Greek fishing village, it has now been developed as a holiday-home resort, and gets very crowded in summer. Because it is easy to get there with plenty of public transport, it is good for  day trips and is a popular weekend getaway with many hotels, and a couple of campsites.

Şile: A pleasant, small holiday town, Şile lies 50km from Üsküdar on the Black Sea coast and some people even live here and commute into Istanbul. The white sandy beaches to the west are easily accessible from the main highway, as well as a series of small beaches to the east. The town itself is perched on a cliff-top over- looking the bay's tiny island. There is an interesting French-built black-and-white striped lighthouse and a 14th century Genoese castle on the island. Apart from its popular beaches, the town is also famous for its special cloth, Sile bezi, a white muslin fabric a little like cheesecloth, which the local women embroider and sell on the streets of Sile, as well as all over Turkey.

The town has plenty of accommodation available, hotels, guest houses and pansiyons, although  it can get very crowded at weekends and holidays, being very popular with people from Istanbul for a getaway, especially in the summer. There are small restaurants and bars in the town.

Prince’s Islands:

Also known as the Istanbul Islands, there are eight in the Marmara Sea, within one hour from the city. Boats depart for the islands from Sirkeci, Kabatas and Bostanci, with more services during the summer. These islands, on which monasteries were established during the Byzantine period, were a popular summer retreat for palace officials and a place of banishment for Byzantine princes. They still provide a popular escape from the city, with wealthier Istanbulites owning summer houses there.

Buyukada The largest and most popular is Buyukada (the Great Island). Large wooden mansions still remain from the 19th century when wealthy Greek and Armernian bankers built them as holiday villas. The island has always been a place predominantly inhabited by minorities, hence Islam has never had a strong presence here.
Buyukada has long had a history of people coming in exile or retreat; its most famous guest being Leon Trotsky, who stayed for four years while writing ‘The History of the Russian Revolution’. The island consists of two hills, both surmounted by monasteries, with a valley between. Motor vehicles are banned, so transport is provided by horse and carriage, leaving from the main square off Isa Celebi Sokak. Bicycles can also be hired.
The entire island is lively and colourful, with many restaurants, hotels, tea houses and shops. There are huge well-kept houses, trim gardens, and pine groves, as well as plenty of beach and picnic areas.

Burgazada: Smaller and with less of a tourist infrastructure is Burgazada. The famous Turkish novelist, Sait Faik Abasıyanık lived here, and his house has been turned into a museum dedicated to his work, and retains a remarkably tranquil atmosphere.

Heybeliada ‘Island of the Saddlebag’, because of its shape, is loved for its natural beauty and beaches. It also has a highly prestigious and fashionable watersports club in the northwest of the island. One of its best-known landmarks is the Greek Orthodox School of Theology, with an important collection of Byzantine manuscripts. The school sits loftily on the northern hill, but permission  to enter is needed, from the Greek Orthodox Patriarchate in Fener.  Walking and cycling are popular here and there isolated beaches as well as the public Yoruk Beach, set in a magnificent bay. There are plenty of good local restaurants and tea houses, especially along Ayyıldız Caddesi, and the atmosphere is one of a close community.

Bayramoğlu - Darıca Bird Paradise and Botanic Park is 38 km. from Istanbul. This enormous park is full of bird species and plants from various parts of the world.

CLIMATE

Today and next 3 days in Istanbul:
 

Source: Turkish State Meteorological Service